Here is the Flickr stream. It's only what I took in Gdańsk so-far - Malbork and Lublin are coming soon.
Hope everyone enjoys!
16.9.07
10.9.07
We avoided going to Hel ...
... and went to Malbork instead !
So, I've seen several castles now - in Austria, Ireland, Slovenia and Poland. But none of them compare to Malbork/Marienburg. Oh my ! It's
freaking fantastic. If you're into the Medeival period - and I definitely am - this is a must. It's phenomenal. Granted, much of it was destroyed during the War, but it's amazing to see what's there now, and what it once was. It is crawling with cool history, and you can feel it in the bricks when you're in the place. Impressive exhibits and a great guide (well, it was in Polish, but Ania 
says he was great - he certainly seemed both interested and knowledegable) showed us and a few others around for three hours. By closing time, we were left to our own devices for a bit, which was really nice too, and since it didn't seem like a busy day, we basically almost had the place to ourselves. It's bloody huge, and the restoration work going on there is impressive as well.
So, I've seen several castles now - in Austria, Ireland, Slovenia and Poland. But none of them compare to Malbork/Marienburg. Oh my ! It's
freaking fantastic. If you're into the Medeival period - and I definitely am - this is a must. It's phenomenal. Granted, much of it was destroyed during the War, but it's amazing to see what's there now, and what it once was. It is crawling with cool history, and you can feel it in the bricks when you're in the place. Impressive exhibits and a great guide (well, it was in Polish, but Ania says he was great - he certainly seemed both interested and knowledegable) showed us and a few others around for three hours. By closing time, we were left to our own devices for a bit, which was really nice too, and since it didn't seem like a busy day, we basically almost had the place to ourselves. It's bloody huge, and the restoration work going on there is impressive as well.Moja Polsku Jazyk...
.. jest nie dobra :-)
Ok, I tried this time, I really did. Especially now, listening to myself on some of the video I took, I really realize how pitiful my Polish is. And, why Polish speakers don't respond to me when I try speaking to them ;-) It doesn't sound like Polish. So, I must work harder on it. Maybe recording myself is a good tool, if I can face it.
The only good part is that I am beginning to have a much better ear for it. Certain things I'm starting to understand without thinking, and can even claim to have had a few intuitive moments with Polish this time. Still, I have a lot - A LOT - of work to do. I conducted myself in Polish well on the flights, and a few times in restaurants, and did a little bit of talking with Ania's friends we met in Lublin (thanks especially to Anetka who is always great at getting me to understand her).
Ok, I tried this time, I really did. Especially now, listening to myself on some of the video I took, I really realize how pitiful my Polish is. And, why Polish speakers don't respond to me when I try speaking to them ;-) It doesn't sound like Polish. So, I must work harder on it. Maybe recording myself is a good tool, if I can face it.
The only good part is that I am beginning to have a much better ear for it. Certain things I'm starting to understand without thinking, and can even claim to have had a few intuitive moments with Polish this time. Still, I have a lot - A LOT - of work to do. I conducted myself in Polish well on the flights, and a few times in restaurants, and did a little bit of talking with Ania's friends we met in Lublin (thanks especially to Anetka who is always great at getting me to understand her).
Beer !
I love Polish beer. Especially in Gdańsk, I really really enjoyed myself with the beer. I mentioned Kozlak in a previous post, but also discovered something new from the same brewery (Amber) that I loved ! Żywe, which means "alive". It's a high-gravity lager, unfiltered, unpasteurized beer that is most reminiscent of some of the heavier micros I've had in the States. It's fan-flipping 'tastic ! I don't know if I could drink it all the time, but between Kozlak and Żywe, I had a hard time deciding what to have. Oh, and Ania - who normally isn't such a beer drinker, really liked Żywe too, so that was doubly cool. We tried one more beer from the Amber brewery I hadn't had yet, and it was good, but not as likable as Żywe.
Other than that I don't think I had anything else I hadn't had before, but I did enjoy my "standards" - Żywiec, Okocim and Perła. For some reason this time I had a couple of Żywiec off draught that really blew my socks off. It's always good, but these were beers I'll remember for a while. Oh, and in Lublin at the Irish Pub U Szewca I had a couple of obligatory Guinness.
Other than that I don't think I had anything else I hadn't had before, but I did enjoy my "standards" - Żywiec, Okocim and Perła. For some reason this time I had a couple of Żywiec off draught that really blew my socks off. It's always good, but these were beers I'll remember for a while. Oh, and in Lublin at the Irish Pub U Szewca I had a couple of obligatory Guinness.
Meeting the Family
On Friday, we arrived back in Kraśnik, finally ending our driving adventure around Poland. We'd spent the last night out in Lublin, in a really cool little B&B right in the old city, so it was a quick 45 minute drive back to her home.
We got there right in time for a dinner with her family. Her father and aunt had spent all day preparing a huge feast of a meal. Her brother Tomek joined us, and so did her father's parents. So, I got to meet not only her aunt (whose daughter lives with her husband in the Seattle area) but one set of grandparents too. Not much English was spoken, but her grandfather had been practising saying "hello" and "goodbye" in English, and we had great fun with that.
It was a deluxe feast with baked trout, traditional salads, roasted potatoes, and lots of other nice goodies. I ate until I was stuffed to the gills (haha!), and with the wine and beer we also had, it was one of those meals it takes you a few hours to recover from :-) And, truthfully, I was still full the next morning.
Before Ania's grandparents left, I had one little job to do. I had been practising all week asking Ania's father if I could marry her. Yes, very traditional, but I wanted to do it. So, dressed in shirt and tie, I stood up and popped the question (in Polish, no less). His response was positive, and everyone seemd to enjoy the gesture fully. I also spoke for the first time with her mother, who lives in Isreal, on the phone before the meal, and also asked her the same question. Both of them seemed pleased I was going to the effort, and I was pleased with thier responses.
We got there right in time for a dinner with her family. Her father and aunt had spent all day preparing a huge feast of a meal. Her brother Tomek joined us, and so did her father's parents. So, I got to meet not only her aunt (whose daughter lives with her husband in the Seattle area) but one set of grandparents too. Not much English was spoken, but her grandfather had been practising saying "hello" and "goodbye" in English, and we had great fun with that.
It was a deluxe feast with baked trout, traditional salads, roasted potatoes, and lots of other nice goodies. I ate until I was stuffed to the gills (haha!), and with the wine and beer we also had, it was one of those meals it takes you a few hours to recover from :-) And, truthfully, I was still full the next morning.
Before Ania's grandparents left, I had one little job to do. I had been practising all week asking Ania's father if I could marry her. Yes, very traditional, but I wanted to do it. So, dressed in shirt and tie, I stood up and popped the question (in Polish, no less). His response was positive, and everyone seemd to enjoy the gesture fully. I also spoke for the first time with her mother, who lives in Isreal, on the phone before the meal, and also asked her the same question. Both of them seemed pleased I was going to the effort, and I was pleased with thier responses.
The Ring !
So, as most of you know, one of the big reasons for making this trip was to deliver Ania's engagement ring to her. It was a big success. I gave it to her without much fanfare the first night we were in Gdańsk, as I wanted her to have it all week we were together.It fit perfectly, and it was soo cool to see it on her hand, finally.
She loves it. She kept showing it off with such pride and a giant smile to everyone we met. I felt so good about my choice, and it makes our choice to get married feel even more real.
Driving in Poland
Ok, so as many of you who know me know, I am realtively critical of drivers in the States. Well, I'd never think I would describe Albuquerque drivers as calm and sedate, but compared to what we experienced on our trek between Kraśnik and Gdańsk and back again, I would have to say it's true.
Most of the motorways/highways are only two lanes (one each direction), and people travel vastly different speeds. The convention is to drive on - or at least partly on - the shoulder if you know someone is trying to overtake you, but in many cases the overtaking driver isn't patient enough, so they'll just swing out into the flow of traffic in the other lane, double-, triple-passing, or worse (sometimes with other drivers - often more than one - following them), basically running both lanes of traffic off the road in the process, sometimes at ridiculously high speeds. Couple that with sometimes braking furiously to avoid head-on collisions and slipping back into traffic in the right lane, it is incredible there aren't more accidents.
Add to this the fact that the truck drivers will compeltely hog the road, basically unnecessarily, the constriction of traffic basically encourages erratic driving, passing and the like. It's like they enjoy making things worse instead of better. I was literally in disbelief at some of the maneuvers I saw. Between trying to keep what I considered a safe distance and being seriously tailgated at 120+ km/h, and just trying to keep focused on the normal driving experience, it was pretty stressful.
The one thing I'll say is that at least they use their blinkers. Very few drivers spared the use of them, and it did help immensely. Around the larger cities there are some four and even six lane stretches of road, but they're few and far between, and painfully short. I always found myself wishing there was just a little more road, and another lane or two.
Oh well ! I am glad we did it. I have a newfound respect - generally - for American drivers, and think after this I could probably drive with confidence almost anywhere. It makes "bad" driving in the States seem pretty tame by comparison.
One more little anecdote... We were on a fairly small road that we used to avoid the traffic in Warsaw proper, and it was fairly packed. We're going along a section of road that was really narrow wiothout much shoulder, and literally out of nowhere came this huge Mercedes that was going 300 km/h if he was standing still. Really, I don't think I've ever seen anything not on a track going that fast, and he was barreling down, straddling the center line, in between two lanes of traffic. Amazing. If he'd have hit someone, it would have been so ugly. At least nobody would have lived long enough to know what happened.
Most of the motorways/highways are only two lanes (one each direction), and people travel vastly different speeds. The convention is to drive on - or at least partly on - the shoulder if you know someone is trying to overtake you, but in many cases the overtaking driver isn't patient enough, so they'll just swing out into the flow of traffic in the other lane, double-, triple-passing, or worse (sometimes with other drivers - often more than one - following them), basically running both lanes of traffic off the road in the process, sometimes at ridiculously high speeds. Couple that with sometimes braking furiously to avoid head-on collisions and slipping back into traffic in the right lane, it is incredible there aren't more accidents.
Add to this the fact that the truck drivers will compeltely hog the road, basically unnecessarily, the constriction of traffic basically encourages erratic driving, passing and the like. It's like they enjoy making things worse instead of better. I was literally in disbelief at some of the maneuvers I saw. Between trying to keep what I considered a safe distance and being seriously tailgated at 120+ km/h, and just trying to keep focused on the normal driving experience, it was pretty stressful.
The one thing I'll say is that at least they use their blinkers. Very few drivers spared the use of them, and it did help immensely. Around the larger cities there are some four and even six lane stretches of road, but they're few and far between, and painfully short. I always found myself wishing there was just a little more road, and another lane or two.
Oh well ! I am glad we did it. I have a newfound respect - generally - for American drivers, and think after this I could probably drive with confidence almost anywhere. It makes "bad" driving in the States seem pretty tame by comparison.
One more little anecdote... We were on a fairly small road that we used to avoid the traffic in Warsaw proper, and it was fairly packed. We're going along a section of road that was really narrow wiothout much shoulder, and literally out of nowhere came this huge Mercedes that was going 300 km/h if he was standing still. Really, I don't think I've ever seen anything not on a track going that fast, and he was barreling down, straddling the center line, in between two lanes of traffic. Amazing. If he'd have hit someone, it would have been so ugly. At least nobody would have lived long enough to know what happened.
Safely Home
Well, here I am, back in Albuquerque ! A short trip, but a lot happened, and Ania and I had a great time together.
As usual, it will take a while for me to process everything (video, photos, etc.) but I plan to fill in the deatils of our trip over the next week or so.
I got back after a series of really extended flights yesterday. The flights themselves went fine, but both were longer than scheduled for reasons I don't really know. On the flight from Warsaw to Chicago, I had nobody beside me, and nobody in back of me, so it was really nice and I was able to relax and even sleep a bit. This was a good thing, because the flight - which is normally 9½ hours - turned out to be more like 11. Customs in Chicago was crowded, but luckily they were moving people through relatively quickly.
After I got through security in the domestic terminal I found an outlet and plugged in my phone to get a little charge and called Ania, my parents and my aunt & uncle in Albuquerque. Once my flight to Albuquerque was finally posted, it was delayed by an hour, so my three hour wait turned into four.
So, I found a free spot and finished the last two sandwiches I had brought from Warsaw with me - given to me by Ania's aunt who went with us along with her cousin's girlfriend (thanks Gosa!) to the airport. It was nice having a little something to eat after such a long flight. At this point I was feeling pretty good, and just enjoying being off the plane. But after a while of waiting at the gate for my Albuquerque flight, fatigue began to set in, and I was anxious to get the last leg of my trip under way.
As my flight to Albuquerque was starting to board, I heard a familiar voice say "well, talk about a small world", and to my great surprise, I turned to see Fran Brass, VanDyke's COO, coming toward me with outstretched arms. It was so cool to see someone familiar and hear a friendly voice. We didn't have long as they were calling the flight, but I felt really good meeting her there. It was a nice way to feel welcome back "home".
On the flight, I sat next to a man who had a lot to say, and it was really inspirational and motivating talking to him. We talked for the entire 3 hour flight, which made the journey fly by. So, when the lights of Albuquerque finally popped out of the dark desert floor, I was feeling very tired, but also pretty good about things. Relieved to be really be home, I called my aunt Mona for a ride, and waited for my uncle Howard on the street level. He arrived in short order, and before I knew it I was home, fending off two very excited kitties.
My house was in fine shape (thanks Charles!!) and the kitties were no worse for wear. I dropped my bag, undressed and after sending Ania a TXT message letting her know I was finally home, slipped off to sleep in my own bed.
I had taken today (Monday) off of work, and was thinking after my big flight yesterday I might not take the day but go in to work. Alas, after being awake for 23 hours, and enduring some very protracted flights, it was not to be :-)
So, I am home now, happy if a bit lonely, and consider this trip a great success. I am enjoying my own coffee and capturing the video from the trip as I type this. I'll spend the rest of the day processing my photos and napping as I feel like it, and head back to normal life tomorrow.
As usual, it will take a while for me to process everything (video, photos, etc.) but I plan to fill in the deatils of our trip over the next week or so.
I got back after a series of really extended flights yesterday. The flights themselves went fine, but both were longer than scheduled for reasons I don't really know. On the flight from Warsaw to Chicago, I had nobody beside me, and nobody in back of me, so it was really nice and I was able to relax and even sleep a bit. This was a good thing, because the flight - which is normally 9½ hours - turned out to be more like 11. Customs in Chicago was crowded, but luckily they were moving people through relatively quickly.
After I got through security in the domestic terminal I found an outlet and plugged in my phone to get a little charge and called Ania, my parents and my aunt & uncle in Albuquerque. Once my flight to Albuquerque was finally posted, it was delayed by an hour, so my three hour wait turned into four.
So, I found a free spot and finished the last two sandwiches I had brought from Warsaw with me - given to me by Ania's aunt who went with us along with her cousin's girlfriend (thanks Gosa!) to the airport. It was nice having a little something to eat after such a long flight. At this point I was feeling pretty good, and just enjoying being off the plane. But after a while of waiting at the gate for my Albuquerque flight, fatigue began to set in, and I was anxious to get the last leg of my trip under way.
As my flight to Albuquerque was starting to board, I heard a familiar voice say "well, talk about a small world", and to my great surprise, I turned to see Fran Brass, VanDyke's COO, coming toward me with outstretched arms. It was so cool to see someone familiar and hear a friendly voice. We didn't have long as they were calling the flight, but I felt really good meeting her there. It was a nice way to feel welcome back "home".
On the flight, I sat next to a man who had a lot to say, and it was really inspirational and motivating talking to him. We talked for the entire 3 hour flight, which made the journey fly by. So, when the lights of Albuquerque finally popped out of the dark desert floor, I was feeling very tired, but also pretty good about things. Relieved to be really be home, I called my aunt Mona for a ride, and waited for my uncle Howard on the street level. He arrived in short order, and before I knew it I was home, fending off two very excited kitties.
My house was in fine shape (thanks Charles!!) and the kitties were no worse for wear. I dropped my bag, undressed and after sending Ania a TXT message letting her know I was finally home, slipped off to sleep in my own bed.
I had taken today (Monday) off of work, and was thinking after my big flight yesterday I might not take the day but go in to work. Alas, after being awake for 23 hours, and enduring some very protracted flights, it was not to be :-)
So, I am home now, happy if a bit lonely, and consider this trip a great success. I am enjoying my own coffee and capturing the video from the trip as I type this. I'll spend the rest of the day processing my photos and napping as I feel like it, and head back to normal life tomorrow.
1.9.07
In Poland
I made it to Poland in fine shape. I'm a bit tired now ;-) but got here in style - the flight across the water couldn't have been better. Arrived in Krasnik shortly after 20:00, and I'm in Ania's room as I type this. Her father met us at the train station, and we had a nice little meal, and now I'm headed to the shower and then to bed.
We'll be leaving bright and early for Gdansk in the morning. I should have a chance to post more once we are there.
We'll be leaving bright and early for Gdansk in the morning. I should have a chance to post more once we are there.
31.8.07
Almost out the door...
... I woke to Ania calling me this morning. I had gotten almost everything I needed to get done completed last night so I slept in this morning. Even now, I'm enjoying being on vacation ;-)
I'm so happy to be headed to see Ania. I'm about to hop into the shower and get ready to leave. My Aunt Mona is coming in about 40 minutes to pick me up and give me a ride to the airport.
I'm scheduled to leave Albuqueruqe at 13:05 - no storms or anything today here or in Chicago, so I imagine the flights will be running on schedule. I have a 5½ hour wait in Chicago, so I'm not exactly in a rush...
So, it's not much really - just two lenses, my XT Rebel body, video camera and assorted batteries, cards, tapes and chargers - but I feel like I'm taking a studio with me. Even so - with clothes and everything - I'm packed into about 23 lbs. and a single carryon.
Ania's Internet service should be turned on by tomorrow evening, so hopefully I'll be able to post something here after I arrive in Krasnik. If not, I'll be looking for an Internet café in Gdansk once we're there.
Dowidzenia !
I'm so happy to be headed to see Ania. I'm about to hop into the shower and get ready to leave. My Aunt Mona is coming in about 40 minutes to pick me up and give me a ride to the airport.
I'm scheduled to leave Albuqueruqe at 13:05 - no storms or anything today here or in Chicago, so I imagine the flights will be running on schedule. I have a 5½ hour wait in Chicago, so I'm not exactly in a rush...
So, it's not much really - just two lenses, my XT Rebel body, video camera and assorted batteries, cards, tapes and chargers - but I feel like I'm taking a studio with me. Even so - with clothes and everything - I'm packed into about 23 lbs. and a single carryon.
Ania's Internet service should be turned on by tomorrow evening, so hopefully I'll be able to post something here after I arrive in Krasnik. If not, I'll be looking for an Internet café in Gdansk once we're there.
Dowidzenia !
30.8.07
Back to the Baltic
I'm really looking forward to seeing the Baltic coast of Poland again, and exploring the region of Pomerania around Gdansk in some more detail. One of the highlights for me will be a chance to see Malbork and the castle there. Aside from Malbork, I'm hoping we can drive out onto the Hel peninsula.The seafood along the coast is usually good, although I'm not overly enthusiastic about eating too much from the Baltic (as it's unfortunately fairly polluted). I'm sure I'll try something pulled from the sea, though. I remember on my sabbatical last year having dinner one night in a really nice place that specialized in pieroggi - I'm hoping we can visit it again. Kozlak beer is a local specialty, and is definitely something I'm looking forward to having fresh. It's a dark bock-style (some say it's a porter) and is a nice contrast to the continental lager styles that predominate the Polish beer scene (not that that's a bad thing, but variety is nice).
We're staying in a private apartment with a kitchenette, so we'll be eating most of our meals in, and preparing picnic lunches to take on our day-trips.
29.8.07
The Car
This is the Opel Corsa B City we'll be driving. It's Ania's father's car, and he's generously letting us borrow it for the week. It will be nice having a car and a little extra freedom in getting around.
Highways will be interesting with that thundering 1.2l engine ;-) But, on the flip side, the gas mileage should be great.
27.8.07
Basic Itineary
Aug 31:
• I fly ABQ->ORD->WAW
Sep 1:
• arrive Warsaw, meet Ania at airport (Yay!!)
• train Warsaw->Krasnik
Sep 2:
• drive Krasnik->E372->Warsaw->E77->Gdansk
Sep 3,4,5:
• around Gdansk
• Malbork
• Hel peninnsula
Sep 6:
• drive Gdansk->E77->Warsaw->E372->Lublin
Sep 7:
• drive Lublin->Krasnik
Sep 8:
• bus Krasnik->Warsaw
Sep 9:
• I fly WAW->ORD->ABQ
• I fly ABQ->ORD->WAW
Sep 1:
• arrive Warsaw, meet Ania at airport (Yay!!)
• train Warsaw->Krasnik
Sep 2:
• drive Krasnik->E372->Warsaw->E77->Gdansk
Sep 3,4,5:
• around Gdansk
• Malbork
• Hel peninnsula
Sep 6:
• drive Gdansk->E77->Warsaw->E372->Lublin
Sep 7:
• drive Lublin->Krasnik
Sep 8:
• bus Krasnik->Warsaw
Sep 9:
• I fly WAW->ORD->ABQ
26.8.07
Packing again
I have a short week at work, and on Friday I fly to Warsaw again. I'm getting my stuff together tonight so I don't have to worry about it later in the week. Although I'm not looking forward to the flights, I'm thrilled to be headed back to Poland.
I'll arrive in Warsaw in the early afternoon on Saturday, September 1st. I'll meet Ania at the airport, and then we'll be met by her Aunt and her cousin's girlfriend who will then drive us to Warsaw's central train station. We'll then catch a direct train to Krasnik, where we'll spend Saturday night. The plan is that we'll be driving from Krasnik to Gdansk in her father's car on Sunday the 2nd. We'll stay in Gdansk for four nights, and on Thursday the 6th we'll drive back to Lublin, where we'll stay one night. Then on Friday back to Krasnik, and the next day we're on a bus to Warsaw again, where we'll stay one night and then I'll head home the next day. I'm sure it will be over before it seems like it's even begun, but I am looking forward to seeing the Baltic coast again, and - naturally - seeing Ania is the big highlight.
I've put forth a little bit more effort this time to get some rudimentary Polish under my belt, and although I haven't learned much, I think there will be some opportunity to show little improvements. We will see.
I'll arrive in Warsaw in the early afternoon on Saturday, September 1st. I'll meet Ania at the airport, and then we'll be met by her Aunt and her cousin's girlfriend who will then drive us to Warsaw's central train station. We'll then catch a direct train to Krasnik, where we'll spend Saturday night. The plan is that we'll be driving from Krasnik to Gdansk in her father's car on Sunday the 2nd. We'll stay in Gdansk for four nights, and on Thursday the 6th we'll drive back to Lublin, where we'll stay one night. Then on Friday back to Krasnik, and the next day we're on a bus to Warsaw again, where we'll stay one night and then I'll head home the next day. I'm sure it will be over before it seems like it's even begun, but I am looking forward to seeing the Baltic coast again, and - naturally - seeing Ania is the big highlight.
I've put forth a little bit more effort this time to get some rudimentary Polish under my belt, and although I haven't learned much, I think there will be some opportunity to show little improvements. We will see.
4.5.07
Frustrations ! ;-)
Traveling is always an interesting challenge...
One of the things I find hardest to get accustomed to - especially in the East - is the apparent "pushiness" of people. It's not really rudeness, but by American/British standards, it's a bit of a surprise, although you would expect I'd be used to it by now. Lines/queues really don't mean much, and it's always a shock the first time some little old lady pushes forcefully by you to get that prime spot on the bus, etc. It transfers over to traffic too...
Ania said it best - "here, you have to fight for every little thing." That goes double for a place at a restuarant, parking spot, or a chance to use a public toilet if it's busy. To me, it seems horribly inefficient, but then, I'm a little anal-retentive about that sort of thing anyhow. Luckily, I have learned to just grin and call it a cultural experience ;-)
One of the things I find hardest to get accustomed to - especially in the East - is the apparent "pushiness" of people. It's not really rudeness, but by American/British standards, it's a bit of a surprise, although you would expect I'd be used to it by now. Lines/queues really don't mean much, and it's always a shock the first time some little old lady pushes forcefully by you to get that prime spot on the bus, etc. It transfers over to traffic too...
Ania said it best - "here, you have to fight for every little thing." That goes double for a place at a restuarant, parking spot, or a chance to use a public toilet if it's busy. To me, it seems horribly inefficient, but then, I'm a little anal-retentive about that sort of thing anyhow. Luckily, I have learned to just grin and call it a cultural experience ;-)
Oscepek & Mead
I probably need Ania to correct my spelling... but "Ohs-tse-peck" is the variety of sheep's, goat and cow's milk cheese that is very common and traditional in the Tatras. It's made in these neat
little shapes depending on the size of the peice of cheese, and is typically available in several verieties - plain, smoked, and a sweetish variety that bears some resemblance to Scandanivian jegtost (jeeze, I can't spell that either). Actually, it also comes in even more interesting form-factors, like strings that look almost like spaghetti (this kind Ania likes because it is not as salty as the others), and even in odd little knots and braids. These types are a bit more on the rubbery side than the others - a lot like "string cheese" in the States.
You can buy it on the street and eat it cold, but it's also served grilled, and in a restaurant would typically be served with a berry sauce almost like cranberry sauce - again, with the cheese itself grilled. The more typical verieties are a lot like farmer's cheese or cheese curd, and if it's good and fresh, it squeaks when you eat it. YUMMY !!! I love the smoked goats variety myself. I have some cool pictures, but on Ania's poor little laptop, it's too much of a chore to download and process my RAW images from my camera, so I'll have to wait until I am home to share those.
Another speciality that pleases me to no end is the Polish predilection toward Mead. I've mentioned it before, but especially this time of year it seems even more common. It's most often served warm, and though on the sweet side, it's not the wine-with-honey-added crap that you find so many places that's pawned off as "Mead" - it's the real thing baby, and they have no interest in keeping it from finishing its fermentation - meaning it is strong and tasty. We had some in Krakow, and in Zakopane. Ania's Dad, unfortunately, is no longer in possession of his own Mead ("Miod"), but we were talking about it (well, we were discussing it with Ania) last night over the roast duck supper he prepared for us.
We're taking the day today to relax (we slept until nearly noon!) and do laundry and some other chores, and will have an early supper with Ania's Dad and then go out with a friend of Ania's to a local Pub/Cafe/Pizza joint later. Tomorrow we'll spend in Lublin, seeing some things like the castle interior and the "Church of Art" which I've never seen before. Being the 5th of May, there should be a lot going on tomorrow night and it should be a good time.
little shapes depending on the size of the peice of cheese, and is typically available in several verieties - plain, smoked, and a sweetish variety that bears some resemblance to Scandanivian jegtost (jeeze, I can't spell that either). Actually, it also comes in even more interesting form-factors, like strings that look almost like spaghetti (this kind Ania likes because it is not as salty as the others), and even in odd little knots and braids. These types are a bit more on the rubbery side than the others - a lot like "string cheese" in the States.You can buy it on the street and eat it cold, but it's also served grilled, and in a restaurant would typically be served with a berry sauce almost like cranberry sauce - again, with the cheese itself grilled. The more typical verieties are a lot like farmer's cheese or cheese curd, and if it's good and fresh, it squeaks when you eat it. YUMMY !!! I love the smoked goats variety myself. I have some cool pictures, but on Ania's poor little laptop, it's too much of a chore to download and process my RAW images from my camera, so I'll have to wait until I am home to share those.Another speciality that pleases me to no end is the Polish predilection toward Mead. I've mentioned it before, but especially this time of year it seems even more common. It's most often served warm, and though on the sweet side, it's not the wine-with-honey-added crap that you find so many places that's pawned off as "Mead" - it's the real thing baby, and they have no interest in keeping it from finishing its fermentation - meaning it is strong and tasty. We had some in Krakow, and in Zakopane. Ania's Dad, unfortunately, is no longer in possession of his own Mead ("Miod"), but we were talking about it (well, we were discussing it with Ania) last night over the roast duck supper he prepared for us.
We're taking the day today to relax (we slept until nearly noon!) and do laundry and some other chores, and will have an early supper with Ania's Dad and then go out with a friend of Ania's to a local Pub/Cafe/Pizza joint later. Tomorrow we'll spend in Lublin, seeing some things like the castle interior and the "Church of Art" which I've never seen before. Being the 5th of May, there should be a lot going on tomorrow night and it should be a good time.
Czesc !
is Polish for Hello !
So, we arrived in Krasnik last night on the LONG bus from Zakopane. We took a tremendous route through the mountains and into the forested plains that make up the Eastern part of Poland which runs into Beylorussia and the Ukraine. Hemlock, beech annd birch forests, rolling hills, and little streams lined the way after we came down from the Tatra foothills. It was a sunny day, and the views of the Tatra mountains and the foothills, with the craggy cliffs and mountain lakes were really remarkable. Unfortunately, we didn't do much stopping for pictures, but I will have some great images to keep in my mind for a trip here this time of year with a car - to enable stopping every few minutes to soak in the next view.
Especially high up in the Tatras, Spring is just coming. The peaks around Zakopane were still heavily snowpacked, and many of the trees were just sprouting buds. It is an apple growing region, and all the apple trees are in full bloom, making all the hillsides look like giant cotton fields (or something like that). Tulips and something that reminds me of columbine were in abundance in peoples gardens, and generally it's so quaint it would seem trite if it wasn't so cool.
So, we arrived in Krasnik last night on the LONG bus from Zakopane. We took a tremendous route through the mountains and into the forested plains that make up the Eastern part of Poland which runs into Beylorussia and the Ukraine. Hemlock, beech annd birch forests, rolling hills, and little streams lined the way after we came down from the Tatra foothills. It was a sunny day, and the views of the Tatra mountains and the foothills, with the craggy cliffs and mountain lakes were really remarkable. Unfortunately, we didn't do much stopping for pictures, but I will have some great images to keep in my mind for a trip here this time of year with a car - to enable stopping every few minutes to soak in the next view.
Especially high up in the Tatras, Spring is just coming. The peaks around Zakopane were still heavily snowpacked, and many of the trees were just sprouting buds. It is an apple growing region, and all the apple trees are in full bloom, making all the hillsides look like giant cotton fields (or something like that). Tulips and something that reminds me of columbine were in abundance in peoples gardens, and generally it's so quaint it would seem trite if it wasn't so cool.
2.5.07
Well then !
Ok, well, it's taken me a while to finally post, but I arrived here fine on Friday the 27th, and met Ania shortly after I arrived in Warsaw.
We spent our first two days together in Warsaw and enjoyed the realatively nice weather, which they had not been having up to that point. I guess maybe I brought some of the New Mexico sun (but thankfully not the wind!) with me. The temperatures have been hovering around 10C during the day, and though not warm, the sun has been shining. We saw some rain one evening in Warsaw, but the following morning was sunny and we spent the day walking around the Warsaw Botanical Garden and Belvedere. It was a really pleasant day.
So, the next day (Sunday) we hopped on an express train to Krakow, where we only stayed one night, but thouroughly enjoyed ourselves. Again, sunny if a bit chilly, but lovely for strolling around the old city in Krakow.
All this time I have been having Ania really try to beat some Polish into my head, and it must be working a tiny bit at least ;-) I have been attempting to order food and drinks, with relatively good success. Most other operations still are out of my reach, but I feel like I will leave Poland this time with a much firmer foundation in Polish than I have had before.
Monday afternoon, we took another train - this time to Zakopane, where we are now. Zakopane
is literally crawling with tourists, and although it's hard not to be a little xenophobic, it is fun. We're staying in a charming B&B/Pension, and it's a good thing I made reservations... This morning one of the ladies at the Pension was telling Ania that there is literally not a room free anywhere even in the nearby towns.
Running out of time. Will post more later !!!
~J
We spent our first two days together in Warsaw and enjoyed the realatively nice weather, which they had not been having up to that point. I guess maybe I brought some of the New Mexico sun (but thankfully not the wind!) with me. The temperatures have been hovering around 10C during the day, and though not warm, the sun has been shining. We saw some rain one evening in Warsaw, but the following morning was sunny and we spent the day walking around the Warsaw Botanical Garden and Belvedere. It was a really pleasant day.
So, the next day (Sunday) we hopped on an express train to Krakow, where we only stayed one night, but thouroughly enjoyed ourselves. Again, sunny if a bit chilly, but lovely for strolling around the old city in Krakow.
All this time I have been having Ania really try to beat some Polish into my head, and it must be working a tiny bit at least ;-) I have been attempting to order food and drinks, with relatively good success. Most other operations still are out of my reach, but I feel like I will leave Poland this time with a much firmer foundation in Polish than I have had before.
Monday afternoon, we took another train - this time to Zakopane, where we are now. Zakopane
is literally crawling with tourists, and although it's hard not to be a little xenophobic, it is fun. We're staying in a charming B&B/Pension, and it's a good thing I made reservations... This morning one of the ladies at the Pension was telling Ania that there is literally not a room free anywhere even in the nearby towns.Running out of time. Will post more later !!!
~J
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)